Firenze… my secret love affair

I fell in love again. Honey, I love you… but I have to be honest — I wasn’t expecting this. It swept me off my feet. It’s Firenze.

That’s the perfect description of how this city makes you feel: in love. Butterflies included. Everything you see — architecture, art, cathedrals, museums, streets — pulls you straight back into Florence’s medieval and Renaissance soul. It’s overwhelming in the best possible way. If you can visit only one place in Italy, choose Florence. Not Rome, not Venice, not Naples. Florence. And honestly, once is never enough.

Choosing the “right” time of year to visit is unnecessary — every season works. If you want to save some money, keep an eye out for the week (usually in spring) when state museums are free. Dates change yearly, except for one: February 18th, in honor of Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici. On that day, all state museums are free.

I also highly recommend the Firenze Card (www.firenzecard.it, €50). It’s valid for 72 hours and includes access to 33 museums, villas, gardens, and unlimited public transport (which you probably won’t use — Florence is best explored on foot).

The downside? Only one entry per museum. Some places, like the Uffizi Gallery, simply can’t be fully experienced in one visit. An alternative is the Friends of the Uffizi Card (www.amicidegliuffizi.it), valid for a year and covering 22 museums with unlimited entries (€60 for adults, €100 for a family of four).

When you add up individual ticket prices — Duomo Museum (€15), Boboli Gardens (€10), Uffizi (€12.50), Santa Croce (€8), Santa Maria Novella (€7.50) — the math is obvious. Choose the card that fits your plans and save money.

Florence is compact and best explored on foot. Avoid driving — Italians are fearless drivers and parking is a nightmare. Private garages cost around €20 per day. Santa Maria Novella train station is right in the center, just a 10-minute walk from the Duomo.

I researched what to see and where to stay for weeks, changing my mind daily — Florence does that to you.

We stayed at Hotel Croce di Malta (www.crocedimaltaflorence.com). We chose it for its artistic interior inspired by the 15th and 16th centuries, its excellent location between the Arno River and Santa Maria Novella station, and a beautiful rooftop terrace (open in spring and summer — always check this before booking).

Despite the terrace being closed during our stay (again), everything else was flawless: service, breakfast, cleanliness. The hotel also offers a swimming pool, free Wi-Fi, a restaurant, and rooms starting at around €100 per night.

Places we chose to see

Uffizi Gallery — be prepared to wait in line (we waited two hours). Take an audioguide. Four hours, 45 rooms, endless masterpieces: Botticelli, Leonardo, Michelangelo. Don’t miss the river Arno and Ponte Vecchio view from the glass corridor on the second floor.

Duomo — Florence’s most iconic landmark. Gothic perfection in green, white, and pink marble. Construction took 150 years. Climbing the dome is not for the claustrophobic or flip-flop wearers. Reservations are required, and once you start climbing, you’ll understand why.

Pause at the balustrade to admire the seven stained-glass windows, then continue upward for a breathtaking 360° panoramic view of Florence.

At Piazza del Duomo, don’t miss the Baptistery of San Giovanni with its bronze doors, Giotto’s Bell Tower, Santa Reparata, and the Opera del Duomo Museum.

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella and its museum house remarkable masterpieces. The Cloister of the Dead is particularly impressive.

Ponte Vecchio — first documented in 972. Floods destroyed earlier versions, and the current bridge dates back to 1345. Famous for its jewelry shops and timeless charm.

Giardino di Boboli, behind Palazzo Pitti, is a perfect Tuscan garden — ideal for a picnic or wandering among shaded paths.

We planned to visit Basilica di Santa Croce, burial place of Michelangelo, Galileo, and Machiavelli, but it was closed due to a tragic accident shortly before our visit.

Piazzale Michelangelo offers the best panoramic view of the city. A 15-minute uphill walk rewards you with unforgettable scenery, even if the square itself feels a bit neglected.

Where to eat

Avoid tourist traps. Yes, they’re convenient — and yes, the food usually disappoints. In Florence, you must try Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Thick, juicy, and full of flavor. We had ours at Ristorante Buca Poldo near Piazza della Signoria.

I also recommend Trattoria Mario — traditional, no reservations, no credit cards. For fresh homemade pasta, try Le Fonticine.

Wine bars (enoteche) are perfect for tasting platters and casual dining. We loved La Prosciutteria near the Uffizi — loud, fun, delicious, and very local.

And for gelato, find Amorino. Gelato is an art in Italy, and they take it seriously.

I’m still in love with Firenze. I think about her every day. Counting the days until we meet again.